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Madura Press
1986 Madura V1200 Brochure
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Madura V1200 Wiring Diagram
V1200
Wiring Diagram

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  A FEW MADURA TIPS
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CUSTOMIZING A MADURA
The only peice of wisdom I can give Madura 1200 owners is if you are going to put a windsheild or plexifairing on the bike, you will need to get a bracket conversion kit. (Most "cheap" japanese bikes [Like Magnas, haha] had 7/8" handlebars, whereas the Madura 1200 has full one-inch thick handle bars (like Harleys!).

Another note you can add, for fun ... All my biker friends bought Honda V65 Magnas, and I bought the Suzuki Madura (cause it rules!), and their bikes were in the shop more than on the road, because the Magna had bad cams, and had to be re-cammed on multiple occasions. (My friend Tony had his Magna in the shop 3 times in one year due to this problem!). The only thing I had to maintain on my Madura was regular wear and tear stuff like changing oil, tires and tune-ups.

The bike NEVER let me down, even in extreme weather and road conditions. One word of advice: Don't cheap out on motor oil for your bike ... Use Castrol or Quaker state 10W40, and Change the oil Regularily, and your Madura will reward you with many years of unprecedented reliability.

P.S. Did y'all know that the Suzuki Cavalcade uses the same (albeit bored out) engine as the Madura 1200? It's truly one of the most reliable engines Suzuki ever built! It's automatic hydraulic valvle adjusters, etc. make it one of the easiest bikes to maintain and run...

See Y'all on our highways and Byways!
Mark Mutschlechner ;?)

REFINISHING THE CHROME WHEELS
I have a suggestion for those that have bad chrome on their spoked wheels. I took mine off and sandblasted both of the rims and the spokes. I did not even remove the tires. I taped the spokes and primered the rims only. I then painted the rims gold to match the lettering on the side covers. When the rims were finished I removed the tape and clearcoated the rims and spokes. Both rims turned out great and the bike looks good with the gold rims.

Pete Standen

POLISHING ALUMINUM
[Regarding "Fred from Norway's" before and after pics on PAGE 2 of the pics pages]

Fred did respond to me and I can probably find his e mail and forward it to you. The basic approach is as follows. Disassemble the part you wish to polish. Start with a small easy part such as the radiator covers or the secondary gear cover. Degrease and use a paint stripper to remove the clearcoat. If you do not use a stripper you will need a coarse 180-240 sandpaper to get anywhere with the clearcoat, and you will spend a while getting rid of the scratches. The process will involve wetsanding with a waterproof sandpaper. If the parts are in fairly good shape you could start with a 400 grit. You may need something coarser if pitting is evident. Just use the coarse grit in the rough areas. This is aprocess of making finer and finer scratches. It is also messy. I have the following grit that I select from 180, 240, 320, 360, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000. Most of these grits can be purchased at an automotive supply store. You may also want to get a couple of rubber sanding blocks. The rest is hard work and time consuming. Work your way up through the various grits till you get to the 1500 or 2000. I sand in the sink and keep the part under running water or keep it wet by submersing in the bowl. I have been successful with preserving the paint on the radiator covers by masking. You may however wish to repaint. After sanding is finished I buff with a buffing pad on a grinder. Pads and compound are available from Sears. I bought two 6 inch pads and a package of compound 4 different bars. After buffing clean the parts real well and apply a coat of clearcoat. I think I used Krylon which I later discovered was not fuel proof. Good reason to start out small. I will try PJ1 clearcoat lacquer next. Anyone have any suggestions for a good clearcoat? If you decide to go for the big parts you should probably order a set of gaskets first. Good luck it is definately a winter project.

From Jet1200 on the Madura Discussion Board

OXIDIZED CLEARCOAT AND RUSTED SPOKES

Once the clearcoat starts to oxidize and peel, there's not much you can do but take it all off. I spent well over 50 hours, maybe closer to 100 hours, polishing the aluminum on a V1200 I bought from someone who left it leaning against a garage for years. Using steel wool, Never Dull wadding polish, and lots of elbow grease is all I needed to get that oxidized clearcoat off my aluminum parts, including the forks, engine casing, seat rails, headlamp brackets, radiator cover. Probably retarded to do it that way, but I don't know anything about wet sanding and wouldn't trust myself not to mess it up!

The spokes on the bike were rusted something bad, but with small wire brushes, steel wool and Never Dull, I was able to shine those babies up without refinishing them, and unless you look at them from only 6 inches away, you won't see the small pock marks left behind by the rust and corrosion.

From Les Konley

CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
Just wanted to say that I just replaced the clutch on my GV1200. I went with Suzuki fibers, steels and springs. This is, I must mention, a very easy job. Got it done in under 3 hours. The most time-consuming part was getting the old gasket off of the clutch cover mating surfaces. I found that spraying carb cleaner on the old gasket softens it up, making it MUCH easier to scrape off with a razor blade. I'm now going to detail the whole bike, including polishing all clear coated parts. And then I'll finally spring for a photo scanner so I can get this sharp bike of mine on the website. (See Photos Page 1)

John Riggio

RUNNING RICH AT HIGH ALTITUDES
I had the carbs on my V1200 overhauled when I bought it - cost $400 - but I didn't know that the carbs were running rich until after that... so it would cost another $400 to open them up again and have the jets changed, as I would not attempt such a thing myself. So, I foul a set of plugs, sometimes two sets, every season. Since I can change my own spark plugs, I couldn't justify spending the money to have the carbs rejetted - but that is what it would require to run properly. New jets in the carbs would balance the fuel/air ratio. Perhaps you know someone who could do it for cheaper where you live. But because they run rich, when I crack the throttle open, I can tell the engine bogs quite a bit. Unfortunately, we lose almost 25% of the Madura's power at 5,000 ft. altitude, and I can REALLY tell the difference, because I owned one new in San Fran. back in 1986, and it had LOTS more power than mine does now. Oh well, since I'm getting older, I don't need to go as fast as when I was in my 20's either! Sometimes though, when I go on cruises up in the Rocky Mts., I might even lose a cylinder because of lack of air! Another way to improve air to the engine and gain back some power would be to put in a K&N performance air filter, which I plan on doing this summer... so that the engine can GET more air.

Les Konley

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